The Voyage of the Swan
 
The Voyages: Fiji
It took us five days to reach Fiji from Tonga. During that time we were becalmed for 22 hours and sailed in very light winds for another whole day after the calm. Suva is a big modern city with a large busy harbor. We were dwarfed by large ships that come and go around us. We provisioned here and prepared for sailing to other parts of Fiji. There are over 300 islands in Fiji.
On September 4, we sailed over night to the western side of Viti Levu. Inside the barrier reef, we entered an area with many smaller reefs and calmer waters. Navigation can be very tricky here. It’s very beautiful with a dry climate very different from anything we’ve seen in the tropics.
Navigating the reefs off Mololo Lailai island, we hit one of them. We had the latest chart, but one of the few marks had been moved, leading me to believe the farther mark was indeed the nearer, missing mark. There was a dogleg in the reef, so when we headed for the farther mark, we hit the knee of the dogleg. The sun was in our eyes and there was a heavy chop, so the reef was invisible to us. Still, the mishap was my fault. The prudent navigator never relies on just one guide. We should have waited for better conditions.
When we reached the anchorage, we went over the side to survey the damage. We found we had hit the ballast and the skeg. The lead ballast was only scratched but the skeg was crunched on the leading edge. Next day, we sailed to Vuda Marina, 12 miles away, and hauled out for repairs. We will use the “opportunity” to do some routine maintenance we were going to do in New Zealand. We were lucky. It could have been much worse. We could have gotten stuck on the reef and suffered significant damage. We were also lucky to be only 12 miles from a repair facility (rare in the tropics). Finally, we were lucky that Pacific Seacraft had built such a strong skeg: there was no damage to the rudder or shaft.
Driving past Late Island toward Fiji.
A section of Suva’s skyline.
The island of Mololo on the western side of Viti Levu, Fiji. It is very dry here. In Suva it rained nearly every day. Here, it rains very little.
We anchored in front of the Musket Cove Resort on Mololo Lailai island.
The damaged skeg.
Swan on the hard in Figi. Notice the papaya trees, full of fruit, behind the boat. Yummy!
The entrance to Vuda Marina. The restaurant/bar is on the point. Vuda Marina is a hurricane hole and a beautiful facility.
Sunset from the little restaurant on the point at Vuda Marina.
The repaired skeg. It took a while because I could only apply fiberglass in the cool of the evenings.
Hindu temple near Nadi, Fiji. The artwork inside was incredible but we were not allowed to take pictures.
Med-moored at the Vuda Marina. Considered a hurricane hole, the marina is small, round in shape and the entrance is very tight.
We finally get a cockpit sunshade made by Marshall Sails at very reasonable Fiji prices. Can’t believe we did without for so long!
Halloween med-moored. The trickers are Dutch, Canadian and Australian, just a sampling of the multinational cruising community.
Big shark at University of the South Pacific, Fiji.
The Fiji Museum. One of the best museums we’ve ever been in. It even had the Bounty’s rudder here.
Millie, marina manager, and Sela prepare the table for a Thanksgiving meal. Not a holiday in Fiji, Millie surprised us with this wonderful gift.
Visiting the village of Koroipita (85 homes). Vika on the right. Megan from “Madeline” in the middle.
Amazing boat storage at Vuda Marina. Boats are placed in holes supported by rubber tires. Safer stowage during the cyclone season.
We sailed to the Mamanukas for a week. We were the only cruising boat there. We snorkeled the local reefs.
Rhonda, beach combing the Mamanukas at low tide as a squall of warm rain approaches.
My surprise birthday party in Fiji.
Fijians call this tree, the Christmas tree, because it blooms during Christmas.